literary journalism

No recipe? No thank you

I am a competent, though not confident, cook. Like many of us, my culinary creativity has been strained by not being able to eat out since restaurants closed to comply with lockdown restrictions — my mojo further flagging by having to drum up two meals a day during homeschooling. (There are only so many ways to elevate a grilled cheese sandwich.)

In pursuit of inspiration, I have been treating myself to new cookbooks, a longtime addiction. I’m in good company: Nielsen data show that cookery sales were up in 2020 (with fitness/diet growing even more, to balance the scales). Without my having taken full measure of what its name implied, No-Recipe Recipes by Sam Sifton, the founding editor of the New York Times Cooking website, landed in my kitchen. A “no-recipe recipe” evangelist, Sifton promises to transform weeknight cooking by offering ingredients and instructions but no measurements. An omission that gives this home chef heart palpitations

Read the full column online in the Financial Times


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